The old city was only a few blocks from the apartment and that is where we headed. Saturday morning in León is very quiet and we found ourselves following the outside wall of the city. The sheer size and girth of the wall was huge!
As one would expect, in every square one can find a statue of someone who left their mark in history. The gentleman standing above us was Alfonso IX and unbeknownst to us, it was during his reign in the early1200s, that he established the school Janet and I would attend in 1972. This King of León founded the University of Salamanca, where we would be summer students 760 years later. Which is pretty much where our story began.
The cobblestone streets were coming alive by the time we reached Santa María de la Regla Cathedral, the jewel of León. The workmanship above the entrance brought us to a complete stop, but did not hold a candle to what lay inside.
This sacred edifice started in the 12th century is unique from many of the Cathedrals we have visited because of its 130 stain glassed windows. Color and light fill the sanctuary with 20,000 square feet of brilliant glass. Unfortunately, the sun was slightly obscured by clouds, but the colors were still radiant.
And the thing that blew us away is these works of art date back to medieval times.
Everywhere one looks there is another beautiful window to mesmerize the viewer.
Wait there is more!!!!
If you have a few minutes, check out this YouTube video that takes you on a tour of Santa Maria with Pie Jesu echoing in the background: A Tour of Santa Maria
Leaving the glow indoors, we exited to the cloister connected outside. The square was populated with a display on the construction of the Cathedral and statues of saints that had been created in the 1200s. Tom discovered his patron saint against the wall and took a pose. After standing there for quite some time, he is starting to show some wear and tear… The statue, not Tom.
We had spent most of the morning in the Cathedral and it was time to head back out onto the streets. They had come alive with people and we just fell in with the crowd and walked.
Our goal was to find the Plaza Mayor because Saturday is market day. One could almost hear the roar of voices as we approached. It was a happening place! Most of the shops were closed that surround the outside of the plaza, while the center of the square was filled with vendors selling items of all types.
Fruits, vegetables, meats, and household items were all offered to groups of eager customers in the swirl of humanity.
We were headed back towards the Cathedral down a different path when we fell upon an exhibit sponsored by la Guardia Civil. The national police force was created in the 1800s, but became legendary during Franco’s dictatorship as the brutal arm of enforcement of his laws and decrees.
We personally experienced their heavy hand way of solving problems when Tom snapped this picture from a bus in 1972.
Two members of the Guardia Civil entered the bus, one with a machine gun, looking for the camera. Thanks to some quick talking chaperones, we were allowed to leave without them destroying the camera. The dark period of Spain, 1932 to 1975, does not get the attention historically that it deserves. Many have blamed Chamberlin for appeasing Hitler for WWII, where in fact the origins of this world war may be traced to the mid-1930s, when the US and other nations allowed Franco, with the support of Hitler, to practice and prepare for war on the Spanish people. The Guardia Civil today is trying to put the Franco era behind them, but the sight of the uniforms and those hats bring back memories of machine guns to us. (Stepping down from the Soap Box)
Leaving the exhibit noise could be heard down the street at the Cathedral. We arrived at the square to find a bride and groom surrounded by friends and family exiting Santa María. There was laughter, joy, a few beers, and a beautiful bride.
One has to love a fall wedding… We do 😉
The hour was upon us for La Comida. Taking the recommendation of our Airbnb host we headed to a rooftop restaurant and bar. Upon arriving, of course, we found out reservations were required and there were no available. However, they were nice enough to seat us at a small counter near the bar. The meal that followed was only surpassed by the views offered.
Tom went with a traditional rabbit stew, while Janet with steak and papas fritas. The meal was excellent, but the wine was superb! Pétalos, a red wind from Bierzo is a Tom favorite, and will definitely play into blog in the coming days.
And then there was dessert of course… it is La Comida, the big meal of the day. Zooming right in on a pistachio ice cream dessert, which was devoured, our gluttony ended.
A very slow walk in the fresh air was enjoyed back to the apartment. Our rental was on the top floor of the red building in the picture with a balcony.
We had a quiet evening and even watched a Netflix movie, before calling it day. Just a wonderful day in León!
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