Day 3 Porto - Time to sample the local beverage!

We had found a nice little café next to the hotel that we ate breakfast at each morning while staying in Porto. It was a great place to start the day! After our morning jolt of coffee, literally, we headed downtown to the market. This being Saturday morning, we knew that the market would be a happening place, but when we rounded the corner to the shopping street, we were in awe. It was 9:30 in the morning and the place was jumping.

Every shop was open, and people were everywhere! We stopped in front of a shop that sold children’s embroidered items to watch a young girl, aided by her mother, stitch pieces of paper while learning the trade. She made one special for Janet. She was precious as she could be and so proud of her work.

We followed the golden rule, if you hear music – go to it! A group of street performers were tearing it up. Their voices and instruments could be heard for blocks and their harmonies made you want to join in. One problem, maybe more than one… we can’t sing, we don’t speak Portuguese, and cannot keep time. It was best for us and everyone else, that we just watch, listen, and enjoy.

The crowd size swelled the closer we got to the market. Entering the market, the smells and sights were amazing. The locals were doing their shopping and tourists were flooding each isle of the marketplace.

Probably a little longer than two hundred yards long and half of that in width, the market offered a wide array of vegetables, meats, fish, flowers, mushrooms, and those illusive berries always mentioned in wine descriptions – Red Currants.

It was quite exciting to be part of this tornadic mass of humanity, but it was time to crossover to the other side of the river. 

We looked for our tour bus stop and today we jumped on the orange bus line to head across the river. The ride was longer than expected but offered some great views from a double decker convertible bus.

Winding down the hill to the river, the views just kept getting better and better.

Vila Nova de Gaia or simply Gaia is noticeably cooler than Porto. Steep hills, tall buildings, and the sun in the southeast does not reach the streets till much later in the day. It only makes sense that the Port House resides on the Gaia side. The city was quiet compared to across the river, and we strolled up and down the riverfront taking it all in.

The boats all flew their Port House flags

… and their signs were displayed along the promenade.

The vineyards and wineries for Port lie further upriver, but the cool moist environment of Gaia is perfect for aging and storing this amazing elixir. Fortified grape juice that warms the soul and brightens the day is Port. However, beware high sugar content can make the head very sore the next day. We had reservations to tour the Ferreira house at 2:15 so we grabbed a very unremarkable lunch and decided to have a warmup round of port. Quinta Do Noval was our choice for the starter. A reserve Tawny and oh my, was it yummy!

Heading to Ferreira for our tour and tasting we could only imagine how busy a place this street would have been in the 17th and 18th century. The bank of the river is lined with names one has seen on store shelfs always skeptical to buy. It is too sweet most will say as they finish another soft drink, but oh there is a powerful potion in that bottle.

Arriving at Ferreira, our tour group had begun to form. This building has been used for hundreds of years to allow for the port to sit quietly awaiting full maturity. What was truly amazing was that the floor was original. It was made of pieces of oak staves from discarded barrels. They have stood the test of time and if humidity or coolness needs to be added the floor was hosed down and the wood retained the moisture.

The next thing that blew us away was learning that a strong-minded woman and great businessperson in a time where it was a man’s world built a port empire. Dona Antónia was quite the example for many to follow in future centuries. Here, blends of grapes and business savvy continues today. Ferreira has been sold to one of the big boys in the business, Sandeman, but vineyard control and the recipe for Ferreira’s blends of grapes and process remain with Dona Antónia family. Ferreira makes a wonderful product.

The warehouse was HUMONGOUS! There were levels upon levels of barrels aging quietly waiting for their time of bottling. Barrels large and small were everywhere. The pump of the next release was just beginning and hoses lay on the ground.

Our tour guide told us the barrels are kept in solera type systems that only the enologist understands the mnemonics and contents in the grouping. Port, like champagne, is usually a mixture of years and only in the best years is it released by vintage.

Ironically, 1978 happened to be one of the amazing vintages for port. Hmmm, 44 years ago… ring a bell? Yep, it was all about us! A wonderful and informative tour ended with a tasting of three ports. We chatted with the folks arounds us as we sipped the offerings. Each were unique and wonderful. 

However, it was time to think about crossing back across the river. There was one touristy thing we had not done in our time in Porto and that was walk across the bridge. Looking up, we both decided not to take the steps… the Gaia Cable Car seemed the most logical. Janet does not like to be closed in and Tom hates heights… Let’s Do It!?!

This adventure is not on our bucket list to repeat, but we did it! The walk across the bridge was beautiful and we lingered a long-time watching people, trains, and the city below.

You could see the fog moving up the river and the temperature began to drop.

We found a spot along the river and had a very bad dining experience with a great a view looking across the other side of the river that we had enjoyed so much. 

Tomorrow Spain!