Day 12 – León

Today had the potential to be a very special day for us. Before we left Virginia, Tom had been emailing his winemaker friend in Baiona about the upcoming trip. Tom expressed to him how much he would love to visit the winery, Descendientes de J. Palacios (DJP). The Baiona friend was an acquaintance of Ricardo Pérez, the winemaker and co-owner of DJP. Nothing ever happens unless you put it in writing Tom’s father used to say, so he emailed Ricardo Pérez, and cc’d his friend. We heard back from Ricardo, but it did not sound promising because of the harvest and his availability. Ricardo did say in his note to contact him once we were in Spain and he would see if a visit was possible. Once we reached Vigo, Tom shot Ricardo an email and he responded that he could meet us on Monday the 17th. The day had come! Tom was over the moon in disbelief that we were going to DJP for a visit!

There was only one issue… We had to get the car out of the dungeon! Since arriving in León, the car had not moved from this dark creepy place.

With the fortitude of Saint George when he slayed the dragon, Tom got in the driver’s seat and started the car. With the windows down and Janet shouting out distance to the wall, the vehicle was able to be freed from the depths of hell. TEAMWORK!

The DJP winery is in a small town named Corullón in the Bierzo wine region. It is about a 90-minute drive from León due west. Our trip to Bierzo meant we would have to back track, but that did not matter… we were going to DJP!

After we cleared the city, the roads were empty and the drivers extremely polite. The GPS in the offline mode took us right to Corullón. We exited off the major highway and looked up and there on the top of a mountain, we could see the winery. It was a large white building overlooking the valleys below. To get there, however, we must navigate a very curvy road to the top. Thankfully, the road was hard surfaced, albeit very narrow.

Arriving at DJP, it almost appeared deserted. There were a few cars and work trucks, but no sign of activity and no clear entrance. Surrounded by a fence, it almost felt like we were approaching SPECTRE headquarters in a James Bond film. The winery architecturally is stunning and the views it commands are even more beautiful.

Walking around seeking to find an entrance, we met a young couple, Fernando and Alesia, that would become our tour partners. They both worked at the Michelin Star restaurant, Ambivium, in the Ribera del Duero. Fernando was one of the sommeliers overseeing an impressive collection of wines in the restaurant cellar. The two of them were very nice and lucky for us were fluent in English. We all stood there and admired the views around us.

The vineyards surrounded us in little cleared pockets of mountain slopes. It appeared the vines were holding on for their lives on steep inclines. A young colleague walked out to greet us and showed us into the facility. Once again, we were shocked at the minimalism of the structure and yet the sheer beauty. Introducing herself, she explained she was clueless where Ricardo was at this moment, “Maybe in the vineyards”, she said. We chatted for a moment when Ricardo appeared with smile on his face and a twinkle in his eye.

Ricardo is the sixth generation of a notable wine family. His grandfather, Jose Palacios and the namesake of DJP, founded Palacios Remondo in Rioja Oriental and his uncle Álvaro Palacios is a legend in Spanish wine. We stood in front of a glass wall hallway overlooking Corullón and Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance as Ricardo gave us an overview of DJP. It is much more than a winery, DJP is a culture and a tribute to all that surrounds it. The practice of biodynamic viticulture is practiced with passion and each vineyard’s fruit reflects these practices. He explained how everything has a purpose and place. Vegetable gardens close to homes, cattle grazing in the lowlands, or which side of the mountain does one grow chestnut or almond trees are all factors that play into this sustainable farming system. Ricardo, and DJP, work hard to preserve the terroir and traditions of this small village in Bierzo, which includes a school where traditional breadmaking, farming techniques, and winemaking are taught to the community. This passion is reflected in his wines and to us they truly have a sense of place. After his overview, we now know why! With a smile he said, “let us go outside”. Thinking we would stand on the hillside as he explained the vineyards was quickly dismissed when he loaded the four of us in his Land Rover and off we went. Tom in the front seat and the others in the back.

It was not long before we left hard surface roads and pulled up at the edge of vineyard. The work in all of the vineyards currently is all done by hand or by a horse pulling plows. The slope leaves no room for machines to assist in the care of the vines.

Our journey continued onwards and upwards! Knowing Janet must be freaking, bouncing around in the back, Tom was glad he was in the front.

At one point as we were climbing another hill, Ricardo answered a question by taking his hands off the wheel and used them to express his point. He does have a fair amount Italian blood in his heritage. You could almost hear Janet’s heart pounding in the front of the vehicle and I kept waiting for her to exclaim, “Put your hands on the wheel!” However, she remained silent as the three in the back exchanged glances.

The vineyards of DJP are some of the oldest in Spain. In the wine region of Bierzo, it is estimated that 80% of the vines are older than 50 years. Ricardo explained there are many old vines in Spain, but in Bierzo, there are old vineyards.

These gnarly old grape vines are planted in what is known in Spain as “En Vaso” (Goblet here in US) making them look like old bushes. There are no stakes, wires, or support for these vines in their growth. The vines do not get very tall, but the head spreads out like a goblet. Hence the name.

The highest vineyard at DJP is named La Faraona. It stands on one of the tallest peaks planted in Bierzo at slightly less than 3,200 feet. This vineyard is made up of different types of slate due to the fact it sits on a tectonic fault. The wines produced from this magical geological location are highly sought after and very limited. There are usually only 100 cases a year that are bottled as La Faraona. As one would expect, it carries a very lofty price.

Ricardo was nice enough to pose for a shot with Tom with La Faraona in the background. There is no doubt this shot will find its way to our wall in our wine cellar. And one day… well maybe, one day… Tom wishes one day he will be able to taste La Faraona.

Back on the road again, the journey in the Land Rover kept everyone’s heart beating at an elevated rate. Ricardo smiling, continued to relay stories and information about this special place and the nature around it, mostly holding on with two hands now.

We continued to the San Martín vineyard and when we looked back, it gave us of a glimpse of the winery in the distance. The day was just spectacular and the views just did not quit.

Arriving back at the winery, we all piled out of the Land Rover sad that the tour was over but elated to be standing on concrete. Alesia turned to Janet and said she was smiling outside but screaming in fear inside and it was time for a glass of wine.

Back inside we toured the facility. It was spotless and with the 2022 vintage in the tanks and barrels, there was little activity to be seen. However, in a winery that moment is brief because there is always something to do when making wine.

When we passed by the lab, which was isolated behind glass, Janet’s curiosity was peaked. After working in medical labs for over 35 years she was anxious to see the machines they used and the testing that was done. Ricardo opened the door and the two of them entered to discuss the science side of wine.

We descended to the lowest level of the winery and before us was a tasting table and five glasses!

The four of us smiled as Ricardo headed to a barrel to pull a sample. With care, he extracted wine from the barrel and carefully wiped and cleaned anything he touched.

We had four barrel samples: Pétalos, Villa de Corullón, Monçerbal, and Las Lamas, the last two being single vineyard wines. Fernando and Ricardo were chatting in Spanish and the next thing we knew Ricardo disappeared and returned with a 1999 Villa de Corullón, the first wine released from DJP. AMAZING!

We had an experience of a lifetime with Ricardo and his love of Corullón and the wines he creates. The winery is beautiful, the wines amazing, but Ricardo is a very special person, and we were so glad we got to meet to him.

Fernando and Ricardo were off for a business comida and we said our goodbyes and headed back to León.

We left numb with the information we learned, the wine we drank, and the great people we had spent the day with. Arriving back in León, we made the command decision not to put the car back in the dungeon and found a public parking lot close to the apartment. We enjoyed a glass a of wine and cooked dinner in the apartment. Tomorrow we will leave León and head off on our next adventure.