Our hopes were that we would get to the historic town around 9 allowing for lots of time to wander the streets and get a good feel for what it is like to approach the cathedral as a pilgrim would when completing their Camino.
We downloaded our maps while connected to Wi-Fi using google maps prior to leaving the apartment and set our destination to Praza de Galicia Public Parking. It was just outside the historic center of town. For those of you wanting to drive into the town, not walk or ride a bike, there are numerous parking spots. And so far, with fingers crossed, google maps has not failed us.
We had been told to get to the Cathedral early for the 12:00 Pilgrims Mass and we knew we were late! We have found everyone to be extremely friendly and helpful. Ask for directions and someone will always point you in the right direction and often take you there. There were many like us scrambling as well as those who had reached their destination and wanted to get into the church.
Just a quick history of the Camino de Santiago. It is considered a bucket list for many as they make their pilgrimage to the final designation of Compostela. Saint James is the namesake of the Camino de Santiago, which translates as the Way of Saint James. Pilgrims travel alone or meet others along the way, all with the goal to arrive in the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Porico de la Gloria, the Holy Door that is only opened in holy years. Next opening is December 2023.
We entered the cathedral that was already packed at 1130 but were luckily enough to find two seats due to the kindness of an older woman. She must have thought Tom was on the verge of meeting his maker and graciously offered us her and her son’s seat.
At the beginning of the Mass, a list of the number of pilgrims who have been received in the Pilgrim’s Office in the last 24 hours is read out loud in the church. Each of their names and the country they are from is read just prior to the beginning of the service.
Unfortunately, there was a group of children from Madrid in the back of the church making noise and playing grab ass as the Mass started. They kept having to announce for silence and no photos! They were unsuccessful as the kids kept playing and the attendees kept snapping pictures. Luckily, Tom slept through most of it, or he would have been really upset. One would have thought we were at an Elton John concert.
At the end of Mass, we were lucky to experience the tradition of the Botafumeiro. It is said that back in the 11th century arriving pilgrims were tired and unwashed. It was believed that the incense smoke had a prophylactic effect at the time of plagues and epidemics. Quite timely don’t you think! Here a short video clip to explain this event.
The Tradition of the Botafumeiro (Youtube Video)
When gathering pictures for the blog, we had to laugh when we saw this picture. Check out the Priest in the upper left-hand corner. It appears he has his iPhone taking pictures… I guess he did not here the announcement either.
With the Mass completed and Tom’s stomach screaming to escape people and incense, we left the church. A very special experience, but was overshadowed by noise, the mass of humanity, and Tom sound asleep.
The fresh air brought life back to Tom and it was time to get something to eat. Eating in a small restaurant in the shadows of the Church, he decided to go with a power lunch of Coke and Saint James Cake.
It was probably his first coke in 10 years, and it was sooooooo good. The waiter even added extra ice. The world was becoming a better place.
Feeling better, but not wanting to push our luck we headed back to our beautiful apartment by the sea. Arriving safely, Tom headed straight to the bed for a nap.
The lack of sleep last night had caught up with him. Down hard, Janet decided to cruise the city. She freaked when she exited the building and walked across the street. She thought for a moment Tom had fallen out the window.
Tom arose about the time Janet returned.
It was growing late and Janet needed food. Tom not so much, but nutrition was required. Walking to the casino across the street we found an Italian restaurant where Janet choose a pistachio risotto and Tom ordered off the children’s menu – cheese pizza! Both dishes were excellent and hit the mark.
We hit the bed and Tom fell sound asleep immediately. Hopefully he will wake up with a smile on his face and love in his heart… and dinner in his stomach. We have a big day planned for tomorrow.
Good Night from...
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